Press the center back under 1/4"
Pin the two layers of the corset together at the center backs, the folded edges inside. Stitch as close to the edge as possible.
Next, sew cording down the center back. I found it easiest to put the cording in and push it to the center back as I went along. Do this with a zipper foot so you can sew very close to the cording.
The cording coming out of the top. I trimmed it after it was sewn in.
Next step, sew the lines for the busk pocket as marked. Next, take a thin piece of cording (I used 1/16" hemp used for jewellery making) and sew it next to each side of the busk pocket.
The corset will now be completed mostly by hand. Stitch in the ditch on every seam, including the gussets. No stitching should be visible, go through the seam on the front side and come out the seam on the back.
Next step, sew the cording. Again, I used 1/16" hemp. This goes on the lining layer. Simply whip the cording to the corset, being sure to pull your needle through the cord. You'll do this on the side back seams and the side front seams. Once you get to the bottom, fold the cord and sew on the other side of the seam so you have 2 rows of cording.
This picture shows the cording doubled back.
To finish the bottom of the busk pocket, make a small 1/4" slit on each side, right next to the cording. Turn this under and hem to make a finished edge for the busk pocket. You can see this in the picture as well.
Bind the corset using linen tape (which is what appears to have been used in the original) or bias tape (what I used, my linen tape disappeared when we moved). Be careful around the busk pocket. You only want to sew through the outer fabric since the bottom needs to remain open.
Insert the eyelets or grommets of your choice according to the marks on the pattern. I chose to use metal eyelets. These were invented in 1828, so are period for this corset. The original used bone eyelets.
The busk eyelets are hand sewn, both on the original and my copy.
Last step, if you make this corset, please let
me know!
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