The Royal Lady's Magazine

March 1831

Plate One is missing from November, instead Plate 2 has been printed twice. Only one copy of the plate has been coloured. Also, the colour does not match the description. The evening dress is described as being over a white slip, but is shown over a pink slip. The pelisse is described as being crimson, but is painted green.

English Fashions

General Remarks

The cool winds of the last few days have given a tone of wither to the dress of our belles; though not, as yet, a decided tone. Indeed, few opportunities furnish better examples of contrast in dress than a walk on any of our fashionable promenades at this season of the year. The light silks and muslins of summer are frequently seen in whimsical opposition to the warm furs and velvets of winter, while bonnets and hats present every possible grade of material and colour. The winter novelties are, therefore, not very apparent as yet.

One of the most marked changes in fashion is the reduced size of the bonnets, which are now becoming reasonable in form, dimensions and trimmings. The garnitures inside the brim, so long worn, are at length discarded, and are succeeded by plain, though rich, lining of the same material as the bonnet, or of watered silk. Feathers are not much in favour for bonnets, nor do we think they will be this winter. They are, however, much used for full evening and ball costume, and are generally plumes of the ostrich, and with little or no dress. Caps are worn somewhat smaller, but there is no change of any consequence in make or material since our last. Turbans are much made of the new terry velvet, rather broad and low, and superbly ornamented with feathers and jewellery. Pelisses will be worn much trimmed, and of very rich materials. We shall give some beautiful designs very shortly, as also for cloaks and manteaux. Some of our fashionables are wearing chinchilla; but sable, and that most beautiful of all furs, ermine, will be the decided favourites this winter. Boas of the latter are an elegant finish to every sort of out-door costume, and are still in high estimation. The sleeves of dresses are worn of very elegant and fanciful designs, but still as large at the top as ever; and there is every possible variety in those for evening dress. The skirts of dresses have still very deep hems, to the full as deep as last month, with handsome trimmings at top; and some few are seen with rich borders of velvet foliage. The corsage is, without a single exception, made quite close to the shape; and for evening dress, cut lower than for some time past. For morning costume they are mostly cut en schall, and are generally worn with a chemisette of cambric, with plaited frills, or of net, with British lave trimmings, and form an elegant and comfortable home dress. Gros de Naples, or plain satin, is most in use for morning promenade and carriage dress; moire, tulle, and various kinds of crape and gauze, for grande costume. In many instances these materials are worked in gold, silver, or silk embroidery, in light and graceful columns and borders. The canezou of lace and work is now too much worn by the lower to be esteemed by the higher ranks. It is a graceful and becoming article of dress, and we regret to see it out of favour.

The prevailing colours are marquesite, brun d'aveline, crimson and blues of various tints, willow green, and white pink.

Plate 1, Fig. 1.

Walking dress of gros de Naples, of a rich brown. Cloak of royal-blue satin, lined with ermine, and corded with velvet of the same shade as the satin. This cloak has a rich garniture down the front, of an entirely novel kind, it is composed of separate pieces, each cut in three deep scallops on one side, and extended on the other into a stem, which is turned back, and forms a curved strap. These pieces are of considerable size at the bottom of the cloak, and diminish gradually as they approach the top. The cape is cut square across the bust, and terminates in a point across the waist. The cape itself is small, but it increases to a comfortable size by epaulettes, broad on the shoulders, and, like the cape, narrowing towards the bottom of the back, but, instead of ending in a point, as the cape does, they form a fulness and give a smart finish to the cape. The collar is cut in three large scallops, drawn down at the narrow parts by small bands and forming four bouffonts. A boa of ermine is an appropriate and becoming finish to this rich envelope. Chapeau of terry velvet, the same colour as the cloak. The front is open, but much smaller than they have lately been worn. The crown is low, and flat at the tap, and is tastefully trimmed with choux of velvet ribbon. Morning cornette of fine thread-lace, with long mentinnieres. Gloves of blue kid. Bottines of silk, galoshed with black kid, on morocco leather.

Fig. 2.

Evening dress of tulle, over a pink satin slip. The body is made plain, and rather high, with a fall of tulle, edged with pink satin, and set on in large plaits. The sleeve is short, and not too full, and has three triplets of doubled satin leaves across the top, a very little below the fall. THe skirt has a moderately deep hem, above which is a trimming of pink satin, cut en feston, at each point of which is a triplet of satin leaves larger than those on the sleeves. Ceinture of pink satin. The hair is arranged in two coques at the top of the head, and supported by a richly carved comb of tortoiseshell. The front hair is dressed full on the temples, not in distinct curls, but fringed a la reine. Earrings, necklace and bracelets of gold and pearls. Gloves and shoes of white satin.

Fig. 3.

Carriage dress. Pelisse of merino, colour brun d'aveline, corded with gros de Naples of the same colour. The corsage is very plain, and very close to the shape and over it is an elegant pelerine. It is pointed at the waist, before and behind, and is cut into three straps, on each side of the back, wide at the upper part, and becoming smaller towards the waist, where they meet in a sharp angle under the ceinture. The epaulette, or jockey, is very large, and divided into two points, joined halfway down by lanquettes left on each side, and festooned together by corded knots. The skirt is made quite plain, and very full, especially at the back part. Sleeve large at the top, and of the usual size at the wrist, which is ornamented by a superb gold bracelet. Hat white moire, with soft ostrich feathers, or marabouts, and brides of satin ribbon. Colerette and mentonnieres of quilled tulle. Gloves and shoes of brun d'aveline.

Plate 2, Fig. 1.

Evening dress of blonde, worn over a slip of white satin. This splendid dress has a deep flounce round the skirt, surmounted by a broad band of lace, and a scalloped heading. The corsage is made uni, and rather en coeur, and has over it a very rich stomacher of blonde, which is continued over the shoulders, forming deep epaulettes, and from thence to the bottom of the waist behind, to match the front. this part of the dress is edged with scalloped blonde, with loops of gauze ribbon in front, and on each shoulder. The sleeve is short, finished by a fall of blonde, set in naves on a plaited band or ribbon. Ceinture of gauze ribbon.

Fig. 2.

Walking dress. Pelisse of crimson terry velvet. The body is made close to the figure. An ornament, forming at once a lappel and an epaulette, crosses the bust, ending at the waist in front and back. The collar, of ermine, is large and square, and covers the shoulder to a considerable depth. This is cut a la imbecille, and has a deep manchette of ermine. A beautiful trimming of progressive scrolls over a plaited band of satin, distinguish this elegant pelisse. The garniture is set on a little en tablier, and is carried quite to the bottom of the shirt, having the appearance of covering a part of the deep flounce or ermine which finishes the pelisse.

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