Parisian Fashions
Longchamps approaches to force our fair Parisians to abandon state affairs for those of the toilette, or rather to blend them together. "Yes," cries a pretty merveillieuse, energetically, "we must have war; it is necessary to rouse France from the lethargy in which she is plunged. Our tricoloured flag shall wave a propos, tricoloured scarfs will certainly be worn at Longchamps; I must see whether Delisle has got some new ones, and order Herbant to mingle the colours in the noeuds of my chapeau. Yes, war is inevitable, one cannot help giving a sigh, though to the charming English muslins; mais c'est egal, I have already bought mine for Longchamps, you have no idea how pretty it is; ma toilette sera delicieuse."
And en attendant out-door costume affords no novelty, it consists of a redingote of satin, or of gros de Naples, with a boa tippet thrown carelessly round the shoulders. Or if the day is cool, a gros de Naples dress with a cachemire shawl; it is only the capotes, and chapeaux of our fair promenaders, that offer any thing worth of description or remark.
The first are composed of gros de Naples or gros des Indes, with large drawn brims, longer than those of last season, and low round crowns which are higher on one side than the other; the trimming is composed of two light rosettes of gauze riband, one placed on the right side near the top of the crown, the other very far back at the left upon the brim close to the crown. A large rosette is placed inside the brim exactly in the centre, the ends of which fall over the curls or band of hair upon the forehead.
Hats are smaller and altogether of a more becoming shape than those worn in the winter. The crowns are low, some of a round, others of a melon form. The brims open on the forehead, but close and modestly deep at the ears, are just of a right length to display to advantage the shape of the throat. Watered silk, gros d'orient, and plain gros de Naples, are the materials for hats; they are trimmed with gauze ribands and flowers. Some have two bouquets of violettes de Parma, placed end to end on the front of the crown in such a manner as to form a V. A long sprig of lilac with its foliage, is also a favourite ornament, it bends in an arched direction over the brim.
Easter daisies, primroses, and Spanish jessamine, are also employed. The bouquet is placed at the bottom of the crown, but its stalks are so long that the flowers rise above it. Some bouquets are attached to the hat by an ornament of the same material, it consists of three dents trimmed with blond lace. Other bend down upon the brim, where they are arranged in the form of a fan by coques of riband.
St. James's Court Dress
A dress of tulle over a rich white satin slip; the skirt is trimmed with rouleaux of white satin, and bouquets of blue flowers with silver foliage. Train of rich blue watered silk; the edge embroidered with a rich deep pattern of embossed silver. Head-dress, a plume of ostrich feathers, and a tiara of diamonds and sapphires, with necklace, earrings, clasp, &c. to match; white satin gloves; shoes of silver tissue; blonde lappets.
Ditto Dinner Dress
A dress of rich crimson satin, the corsage a la Sevigne long gigot sleeves of tulle, with a double ruffle of blonde, and terminating with a gold bracelet, cut a jour. Hat of white crape; the ornament within the brim is composed of white gauze riband with straw-coloured edges, and a fan-like ornament of blonde; the crown is decorated with similar ornaments, and three oiseaux de paradis.
1. Parisian Dinner Dress
A gown of lilac satin d'Alger, corsage of the demi-redingote form, the pelerine part shallow in front, but deeper behind, is trimmed with blonde lace; sleeves a l'Imbecille of gaze de Paris, over a short satin sleeve. The border is ornamented with blonde lace, headed by a rouleau of lilac satin; the trimming is raised about as high as the knee in the centre of the skirt, by a pearl ornament. The head-dress is a white crape chapeau a la Bonaparte; it has a low crown, and a large turned-up brim, ornamented on the left of the inside with a noeud of lilac riband, and a white ostrich feather placed perpendicularly; two feathers, which droop to the right side, adorn the crown. The jewellery worn with this dress should be gold and pearls.
2. Full Dress
A pale lemon-coloure3d crape dress over satin to correspond. The corsage is arranged en demi coeur by horizontal folds before and behind: it is cut very low, quite square, and trimmed round the top with a blonde net niche, which also encircles the demi coeur. Beret sleeve surmounted by a double fall of blonde lace, arranged in the form of a scallop-shell. The border us trimmed with white ostrich feathers disposed in creases. The hair is dressed in large curls at the sides, and in two large bows on the summit of the head; it is ornamented with diamond pins, and a bouquet of ostrich feathers. Necklace and earrings diamonds.
3. Evening Dress
A gown of rose-coloured gros de Varna, the corsage half-high, and sitting close to the shape, is trimmed with light rouleaux of swansdown arranged en brais at regular distances. Short sleeve forming a single bouffant, and trimmed to correspond. The skirt is bordered above the hem by three rouleaux placed rather further asunder than those on the body and sleeves. The hair is dressed low, and in full curls at the sides, and in a single round bow at the crown of the head. A bouquet of wild flowers surmounts the bow. Necklace and earrings pearls.
4. Opera Dress
A dress of emerald-green gaze de Sire, over satin of the same shade; the corsage, cut low and square, is arranged in perpendicular folds, and trimmed with two rows of blonde lace disposed in the form of a round pelerine, and headed by a blonde net niche. Beret sleeve, The front of the dress is trimmed from the waist to the edge of the border, with bands of riband arranged in the form of a broken cone, they are each looped in the center by pearls, and finished at each end by a noeud en tulippe; the ribands are a shade darker than the dress. The beret is composed of blonde lace and ornamented with pearls, and an esprit necklace and earrings pearls.
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